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A cheap USB hub can make your desk setup painless—or it can cause constant disconnects. The trick is buying the right type for your gear: USB‑A hub, USB‑C hub, or powered hub.
Top budget picks (under $40)
| Pick | Best for | Watch out for | Quick link |
|---|---|---|---|
| USB‑A 4‑port hub (USB 3.0) | Mouse/keyboard/webcam | Don’t run big external drives | Check options |
| USB‑C hub with HDMI | Laptops / travel | HDMI refresh limits vary | Check options |
| Powered USB hub | External drives, lots of devices | Needs wall outlet | Check options |
| USB extension + hub combo | Clean cable routing | Cheap cables cause drops | Check options |
Buying guide: how to avoid the bad ones
- Get powered if you’re connecting drives, capture cards, or anything that draws power.
- Short cable = more stable. Long thin cables cause signal loss.
- Don’t expect miracles from “dock” listings under $40. Prioritize stability over features.
- USB‑C is not always Thunderbolt. If you need high‑end docks, that’s a different budget.
Having issues already? Use this: USB hub not working: fixes
FAQ
Do USB hubs add input lag?
For mice/keyboards, a decent USB 3.0 hub is usually fine. Lag issues are more commonly power/cable problems.
Should I plug a webcam into a hub?
Yes, but if it stutters, move the webcam to a direct port or use a powered hub.
Also useful: Desk cable management under $25